les marches

The tempo has changed, a mad orchestral crescendo replaced by the scratch scratch scratch of a record needle. That’s how every holiday ends for me, there’s a moment when I tire of exploring, I become retrospective, my petals curl inward and I wait for the nurturing touch of home. I’m surrounded by origami flowers, I sketch a thousand ideas in my notebook, they wait for my return to come to life too. I am content just being in this place rather than feeling that visceral itch to document everything. Missing a photo of that french clockwork or that sweeping vista no longer worries me. I have seen so much, my mind is full, it will digest and I’m sure soon after my return I will want more, but for now I have been a glutton for experience and I need to rest.

There is one finally destination before we commence work on the tour. A hair-raising descent that leaves my fingers aching from applying the break then we hit the silent Sunday streets. The only person we see is a man walking his cat, that heightens the uneasiness of a deserted city.

As we draw closer to the trainstation more people emerge but almost everything is closed. The train is packed though and it is a relief to be deposited in montmélian. The mountain rears up before us with a geometric pattern of vineyards so steep it feels like a birds eye view.

We ride, the asphalt sizzles with heat. The horizon waves in a haze of cornfields squeezed between houses. My ears begin to ring and my vision closes in, I need to rest in shade with a drink before deciphering the tangle of french instructions that have come with every airbnb in this country. No one seems to have an address, they have a treasure map.

We enter a French housing development, so different to one in Australia, contemporary techniques hidden in a skin of the old world. Our host has that right amount of English for me to improve my french. Not so much that I am complacent, not so little that we don’t bother to communicate.

They welcome us for a family meal, and their cheeky youngest sun puts on a snorkel for dessert. Earlier his entire face lit up when Dylan skirted him with a water pistol in the pool, it was game on! The other boys have already reached the self conscious age where something as silly as language is a barrier.

The humid air produced a rainbow before even a drop of rain fell. Then it rolled over and we were glad that our tent days were over for this trip and there was a soft bed waiting for us.

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somewhere in the alpes

Welcome to the mountains.

The pizza oven is roaring, stones sucking up heat. The sun bakes and all manner of bees have been visiting the lavender flowers, one particularly alarming specimen with giant dark fighter jet wings whisks by my nose as I finish off the morose tale of Heathcliff and Catherine, after my trip to Scotland the world of moors and gorse are vivid.I blink to a reality of bright sunshine and a backdrop like a painted stage set from the sound of music. How can a view of such rolling fields and a dainty town below (replete with cemetery) exist out of fairytale? The constant grumbling of farm equipment and the swaying powerlines eliminate the need to pinch myself.We’re in the Alpes, and I am resting after a few days of niggling earache that hopefully diminish only to reappear as healthy as ever at dinner time to spoil my chewing. It is a good place to heal, all the more so as the nearest shop is an arduous bike ride to Grenoble so we have cut down on the temptation of patisserie treats. Although I may eat our hosts out of house and home of tiny fake toasts. (By a Grenoble grocery store we saw a man dressed as a pirate asking passers for money, I don’t think his garb helped his cause any)

The church bell rings in the hour and the grape vine above glows as it waves the breeze welcome. Tour de France commentary urgently murmurs from within, our neighbours laugh and every now and again the owner of the constant jingling of bells beats.

I’ve been preparing myself for home, dreaming up schemes and projects so the shock of return isn’t winding. In a handful of days we’ll be working on Phil’s tour group, holiday mode over. How shocking it will be to see a familiar face after all this time!

But for now I’m soaking up the present, I better run the barefoot gauntlet of deliciously soft but bee covered clover lawn to check the fire Dylan entrusted me with so we can have our first proper woodfired pizza since New York! After a barrage of honking horns, merry accordion music has begun floating up from the valley below. Looks like someone’s wedding will be providing a soundtrack to our delicious dinner.

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vinyl backdrops

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