The Yurt Alpine Retreat King Valley

Hello dear friends.

I’ve been trying to savour experiences lately and grasp little opportunities for adventure. Going carless (no, not careless autocorrect) at the beginning of last year helped, as our adventures became centred around trains and bikes like when we were overseas. Hiring a GoGet is a really exciting treat, now we appreciate the speed of four wheels. Those 170 life changing days on foreign soil have been hard to shake, ordinary days seemed like pale cardboard cutouts when we were grounded again. Perhaps I’m only truly appreciative of the pleasures of ‘grounded’ now, years later, writing this standing in my full garden bathed in morning sun, with just a hint of the bite 34 degrees will bring.

The Yurt Alpine Retreat

A recent gift of a night in a yurt in the King Valley was a visceral return to my year of travelling. I lay in an exotically draped bed infused with incense, door open on blue skies and a vista dropping onto treed valleys with mountains beyond. It was new Mexico, it was Utah, Arizona, Boulder and Lake Tahoe. Ah wide open spaces how I missed you. A delicious slideshow of experience called up in a moment of expansion.

So, with a clear head, free of the dull buzz of worry and to do lists, I had time and energy to dabble in watercolours again. Although painting a banana was perhaps an incongruous choice, mountain landscapes would be too overwhelming to render. Hooray for the everyday juxtaposed against the divine. That is the essence of the place. An exotic Mongolian yurt alpine retreat adjacent to a tin shed outhouse with a poem, in a style best described as “Aussie bush humour” on the door. Vineyards sparkling in the afternoon light, grown wild and neglected as the farmers aged. Slightly spooky, wandering through the endless rows at dusk stumbling upon nettles and thistles and old bones. What a full body tingling experience! The exotic only 3 hours from home, what a thrill.

Where do you find the spark of adventure close to home?

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Goodbye earthships

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Last day in New Mexico


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While Jerry and I finished off the retaining wall, at the SS3 site most of the interns didn’t bother to show up, slackers. Our work hard was paid off though in delicious gourmet pizza ordered by Judy. We sat in her living area wreathed in cigarette smoke amongst her knickknacks from the middle east and India, dog begging at the table, loom glistening in the sun, the perfect end to the adventure.

As we head off to Colorado in Sam’s truck I’ll leave you with some photos of the visitor’s centre, the most edible and well maintained garden that I saw on the site. Towering lale, capsicums and tomatoes in winter, if I get anything from this it will be the power of the greenhouse, earthship or otherwise. We’re lucky in Melbourne to be able to grow outside all year round, but with our short but stiffeling summer season dreams of eggplants and capsicums are swirling for next spring! I had a great chat with Danny in the visitor’s centre about his permaculture plans for the site and then Ron burst in all smiles that he had been put in charge of EVE where they would really get stuck into edible gardening. I was so glad to bump into these two in my last hours at earthship HQ, it felt like all the loose ends were neatly tied up and I was ready to go. I wish Ron and Danny all their best with greening the Mesa.


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The twins

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That lived in feeling
The Greater World community, New Mexico


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Heather pointed at me, I was a deer in headlights. “This girl can do bottle walls, she did this one all by herself”, she dropped me in it, I was been taken off-site. I grabbed my bottle buddy and without as much as a word to Dylan I was whisked deeper into earthship country. To be honest it was a relief to be going somewhere new, Survival 3 was getting old. Damien was another earthship builder who I hadn’t met before, half Mexican half Swedish he had arrived some 20 years earlier from California to do a build with Mike Reynold’s son and never left. As he said Taos just sucks some people in and spits others out. When we arrived on site I had a moment of mental confusion and I saw another Damien outside the truck, he didn’t mention he had a twin. Of course hijinks ensued, they liked a joke, one at someone else’s expense was their preferred M.O., it was refreshing hanging with people who really didn’t take anything too seriously. I felt at ease to ask questions about the cement, the cans and the good production. Regarding cement they said that the Simple Survivals really weren’t all that simple and the global works far better with less cement and even Phil the head builder has questioned the cement use, good to know. In regards to using the aluminium cans, in New Mexico when earthships were first created New Mexico did not recycle them at all, he agreed that perhaps now they are recycling an alternative should be considered. In regards to the food, the greenhouses and black water systems could produce quite a lot of food but you can’t force people to grow food, and with inexperienced gardeners the greenhouses can get overpopulated with bugs and disease. Interesting stuff, it made me feel relieved to see that people were not just blindly following the cult of Mike Reynolds and it was in some part a more collaborative effort, although it might be better if it was even more so. The bottles the New Mexican government just crushed and put on the roads in snowy weather.


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Judy, who lived in the global model home with a portly golden retriever called Shasta. Seeing an earthship that was actually lived in was brilliant, a pleasure few of the interns would have experienced, it looked so much cosier than the rentals. She said she was growing a lot more edibles than her neighbours and was using her outdoor black water botanical cell to grow a lot of deciduous fruit trees and even a mini lawn for the dog. She was also trying to revegeatate the surrounding landscape with tough natives.she had installed shades to control the heat as even in winter it was too much for her plants. She had had a bug infestation and recently had to rip everything put including the soil, but now was growing a mango, lemon and olive tree amongst other things. It was lovely to see someone excited about their garden.

Jerry and I got really stuck into the bottle wall, slapping down the mortar without fiddling with it as the twins advised and went through barrows and barrows of bottles. I was good naturally accused of being a convict and Jerry happily seemed to take my bossing and teasing. Then we breezed back into earthship HQ to discover certificates and group photos had been handed out and taken without us, thanks guys. We didn’t miss out on pizza though, everyone piled into cars to head to happy hour. This time the owner was hovering around and suddenly all the bad reviews began making sense, he was a right piece of work, but once he left us alone the wait staff seemed even nicer than usual to make up for his grouchy presence. Spirits ran high for our last meal as a group, we wouldn’t see the majority of them again, there was a finality about it all. Then waving the big group adieu seven of us headed to the hot springs, it was much more pleasant with a small group and a lovely relaxing was to pass the evening chatting, a slow goodbye to my sweet earthship boys.


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The Phoenix

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What is possible


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And finally we saw it, what is possible when a earthship greenhouse pushes the boundaries. Of course the Phoenix is a million dollar home, the finishes alone how years of painstaking work, but if instead of a single family rental with a mostly ornamental garden, it was a multi-occupancy model for communal living the greenhouse would be feeding 4-6 people fairly well. The blackwater botanical cell (the leach field of yesterday;s post) is actually inclosed in the greenhouse and there re a lot of thriving plants in the actual interior as well. With such a lush garden the greenhouse is beautifully humid rather than baking hot and with birds and fish in a pond with running water it feels more like an ecosystem. Perhaps these elements, as well as the hours put into this rental by the staff, are what help it thrive and remain pest and disease free.

It was truly heartening to see such a paradise after all the scraggly, unloved looking gardens of the intern housing. I don’t believe there was a single intern who wasn’t struck dumb by what they saw, of course there were the classic Mike Reynold excentricities like a fireplace that became a waterfall, raised bedrooms, underground walking in robes accessed by a spiral staircase and another bedroom screened by plants rather than a wall, it was rather playful and fun.


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After the day was ended I visited Sam and Jason both tucked in bed for a nap, then heard Griffin and Joe drop by, after chatting with them, other Dan and other Jason with his infectious high pitched barking laugh arrived for a chat and a look at the Tower’s W.O.M. and stayed for a nice little rant I had bottled up about food security. They left and Reid came to take a photo of the bottle wall at sunset and we chatted about banana plants and permaculture and Briz arrived for a photo of the wall as well. Meanwhile Dylan was making surprisingly good camp stove pizza to share. It was all rather lovely, and made me realise as much as I felt ready to move on from this dusty place I would miss all the lovely interns I have shared the experience with. Two days to go.

What are your unforgettable experiences? Have you stayed in touch with the people you shared them with? Or were they a moment in time that burnt so bright then faded away?


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