25 edibles that survive utter neglect

Who said the greatest hunger a person has is to be needed? When it comes to gardening I’d consider it the height of success if I’ve designed myself out of the system completely. No watering, no propagating, just eating!

After 6 months of neglect: a boiling February, an unseasonably hot autumn and a cheerless winter; the food forest hadn’t even missed me. I was relieved. Some plants like the Warrigal greens, parsley and wormwood had actually attempted to take over the joint while I was gone!

So this list is for the busy, busy people out there, who just want to water intermittently, then leave plants to their own devices except for the occasional, to borrow a phrase from Jackie French, “hacking back the jungle” (maybe we can even train the chickens to this for us). I never thought I would ever curse having TOO MANY vigorous plants in the food forest, but I certainly did when I had to write this list, by number 20 I had lost the will, so I hope you find this useful! Drop me a comment if you do, I read everyone and cherish them!

The Survivors & multipliers

These are the plants that not only survived, but thrived on neglect. Taking the mickey really, not for the perfect manicured potager garden, but oh so wonderful for a community food forest. They are great filler plants when a garden is just getting established, after which plants like Warrigal greens can be cut back to create a space for a new plant. Once established these hardy plants will improve the soil, protect it for moisture loss and help to create a better environment so softer plants can also take root.

The fodd forest a year ago!
The food forest a year ago!

The food forest now!
The food forest now!

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  1. Nasturtiums

  2. Acts as a living mulch
    Great Companions for fruit trees (repels bugs, attracts predatory insects) as well as to cabbage family, Turnips, Radishes, Cucumbers, Zucchini
    Pretty edible flowers
    Seeds cam be pickled as caper substitute
    Leaves can be used in salads and pesto
    Spread across the ground, roots easily by layering
    Self-seeding

  3. Chard

  4. Can be harvested all year, if it starts bolting cut the stalk and it should resprout
    Good companion for bean, cabbage family, tomato, onion
    Young leaves can be used in salads
    Its colourful stems are delicious baked or grilled
    Leaves can be used as spinach substitute in warm weather
    Self-seeding

  5. Parsley

  6. High in vitamins and minerals
    Good companion to asparagus, tomatoes, chives
    Wonderful in falafel stem and all!
    Yum in tabouli
    Self-seeding, when we came back from overseas we had an entire wicking bed and two huge pots full of parsley that we never planted there, lucky it’s so useful!

  7. Mint

  8. Good companion to cabbages and tomatoes
    Great fresh or dried for herbal tea
    Some like it hot, but for those who don’t a minty raita is great on a curry
    Robust, can be used as a permaculture lawn or living mulch (but can choke out other plant if not harvested regularly)
    Quick spreading by runners, you can just rip a fistful out and replant it

  9. Wormwood

  10. Pest and animal deterrent so best utilised on garden borders to stop those pesky pets weeing on the veg!
    Can supress weeds because roots secrete growth inhibitors, should keep away from other plants for this reason
    Chop and drop for paths for above reasons
    Grow near chook pens to control external parasites
    Sends out roots and shoots to multiply

  11. Pineapple sage

  12. Our housemate loves to make pineapple sage cupcakes from the flowers and leaves
    Adds nice fruity taste to ice teas and cocktails
    Extremely vigorous if chopped inches from the ground will resprout bushier and fuller (like a beard!)
    Provides nectar for native spinebill
    Used for treatment of anxiety and depression

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Wormwood seedling in January
Wormwood seedling in January

6 months later it is huge!
6 months later it is huge!
elderflower in january
elderflower in january
elderflower 6 months later
elderflower 6 months later
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  1. Warrigal greens

  2. High in antioxidants and fibre. Captain Cook’s crew ate it aboard the Endeavour to prevent scurvy and it was the first Australian edible to be cultivated overseas. Can be used just like spinach.
    Like nasturtiums makes a great pesto (who needs spinach and basil anyway, the capricious creatures!)
    Completely smothers weeds, so excellent under fruit trees (just be careful to cut it away from other smaller plants so it doesn’t just plow over them)
    Disease and pest resistant
    Self-seeds readily and is easily propagated by cutting, just snap it off and shove it in the ground like elderflower and it will just keep on growing.

  3. Saltbush

  4. Tough, drought tolerant and longlived
    Can grow in very poor soils, it has thrived in the dry, compacted edges of the food forest
    Seeds can be ground for damper, or the dried leaves used as a garnish
    Leaves can be used in salads, blanched to wrap fish or even in fritters
    Prostrate forms are a vigorous groundcover that are like a carpet so they don’t smother like warrigal greens; shrubs can be shaped to form a low hedge

  5. Elderflower

  6. Repels insects and vermin
    An excellent hedging plant, often seen in British hedgerows, birds and bees love it.
    Flowers make delicious elderflower cordial
    Elderflower fritters are also yummy
    Strike extremely easily from cuttings, I have cut twigs and just poked them in the ground and they have sprouted!

  7. Feverfew

  8. Good companions crop “banker” to attract predatory insects which reduce aphids, spider mites, thrips and white fly on nearby plants
    Self-sows easily
    Chewing the leaves is said to reduce migraines, but as with all medicinal plants it is best left to the experts, pregnant women in particular should avoid self medicating with medicinal herbs
    Creates a compact 30cm hedge that is great for delineating borders, pretty daisy flowers
    Dried sachets can be used to deter moths from clothing
    Yellow dye can be made from the leaves and stems

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  1. Native raspberry

  2. It is high in antioxidants and it studies with mice was shown to prevent damage to the liver.
    Similar taste to commercial raspberries
    Hardier in this climate than commercial raspberries, can be shawn off at the base whilst in leaf and resprout within weeks (It was accident, but it came back even bushier!)
    Self-fertile, but more success by layering – takes root where canes touch the ground
    Tolerates full sun to full shade, but more likely to fruit with sun exposure.

  3. Rocket

  4. Good companion to bush beans, celery, carrots, nasturtium, mint, dill, lettuce, cucumbers, onions, rosemary, potatoes
    Cover crop, is an effective biofumigant that will overwinter. Before it sets seed chop to the ground and incorporate into soil. Suppresses weeds, fungal pathogens and insects.
    Minimises surface compaction with its tap root.
    Young leaves great in salads
    Self-seeds readily

  5. Nettles

  6. Good companion, increases volatile oils in plants e.g. valerian, mint, sage and rosemary
    Compost activator
    Makes a delicious pesto, but harvest when leaves are young for best flavour. Great on pizza as well as pasta.
    Winter forage for chooks, even increases egg production!
    Habitat for butterflies and other beneficial insects.

  7. Dandelions

  8. Roots are fantastic in stirfries.
    Roots can also be used as a coffee substitute for those trying to kick the addiction, but love the ritual.
    Flowers and young leaves are great in salads
    High in vitamins and nutrients especially calcium, iron and vitamin A & C.
    Spreads readily via their puff ball seeds, grows anywhere.

  9. Strawberries

  10. Good companion of Borage, Lettuce, Spinach, Sage
    Groundcover to exclude weeds (especially wild strawberries) Look lovely on borders as a barrier to grass.
    We had surprising success with strawberries in the food forest wild and standard, they have survived very dry conditions and although those in the driest spots did not fruit as well we still have gotten a constant trickle of fruit this spring, can’t wait until summer! we just ate them straight off the bush.
    Try this strawberry chia seed jam
    Spreads via runners

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  1. Radish

  2. Good companion to peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers, spinach (attracts leaf miner away), chervil (Improves growth & flavour), carrots
    Good nurse crop, they grow fast so if you plant them in a circle around a tomato or other slow grower it will protect it from sun, wind, weeds and pest until it is big enough to look after itself. Often sown with carrots and keeps the soil moist.
    Radish leaves can be used in stir-fries or salads and are more nutritious than the root.
    My french friend eats baby radishes like an apple, fresh from the garden and then eats its leaves too! That’s a bit too spicy for me so I prefer them sliced in a salad.
    If you choose daikon radishes they are very good at breaking up compacted soil , scavenging nutrients from deep down

  3. Clover

  4. Fixes nitrogen in the soil
    Attracts beneficial insects
    Great ground cover/green manure in cooler months (dies down in summer)
    Try clover tea for multiple health benefits including being anticarcinogenic and relieving PMS
    Self-seeds

  5. Borage

  6. Good companion to Tomatoes (attract bees, deters tomato worm, improves growth & flavour), squash, strawberries (increases yield)
    Pretty blue or white edible flowers can add colour to salads and pastas; sugared they can also be used in sweet dishes as cake decoration or in drinks
    Borage leaves make a tea that soothes the stomach and the heart!
    Leaves have a cucumber taste commonly used in soups
    Self-seeds like a champion

  7. Yarrow

  8. Attracts beneficial insects with its pretty flowers
    Increases essential oil production of herbs
    Compost activator
    Useful herb for wounds stops bleeding, relieves pain and has antimicrobial properties.
    Spreads through seeds and underground rhizomes, once you have it, it’s for life.

  9. Calendula

  10. Beneficial insect attracting
    Nematode deterring plant, so a good companion for tomatoes
    Bright orange petals add lovely colour to salads or vegetable stock
    Oil made from the flowers is used in creams and balms to help heal wounds, burns, cracked skin & co
    Self-seeds

clover

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sorrel

clover-mint-radish-flower

  1. Sorrel

  2. High in Vitamin & minerals, especially A, C & iron
    Dynamic accumulator – long tap roots mine for nutrients so it is not only good for breaking up compacted soil, but a good cover crop which can be slashed to add nutrients to the top soil
    Grows in sun or shade
    Leaves add a nice lemony taste to salads or soup
    Drought tolerant
    Grows from seed or by division

  3. Cherry Tomatoes

  4. Kids love finding these sweet treats, we just let the plants sprawl.
    I’m sure I don’t really need to give you any recipes, but this is a chance to send a shout out to two of my favourite cooking blogs vegie num num and green kitchen stories
    Cherry tomatoes are hardier and faster to ripen than larger varieties
    Cherry tomatoes require less heat/sun hours
    A surprise favourite in the food forest that seemed to come up of its own accord. We let it go to seed and sure if they sprang up again this spring.

  5. Lemon balm

  6. Forms a low hedge, so good for borders
    Create a soothing tea from the leaves, considered a mild anti-depressant
    Can be used in baking – how about lemon balm biscuits?
    Flowers attract beneficial insects
    Self-seeder

  7. Basil mint

  8. Strong scent repels cabbage moth so plant near brassicas
    Doesn’t quite taste like basil, but has its own delicious flavour that I love adding to Banh Xeo
    Can be pruned to form a low hedge for borders
    High essential oil content
    Great filler, like mint it spreads by runners

  9. Marjoram

  10. This is included in a list of “plants that benefit everything” with lemon balm
    Tea from leaves good for sorethroats and aids digestion
    Pretty delicate leaves, flowers attract beneficial insects
    In our garden golden marjoram is far more vigorous than oregano
    Keeps full flavour when dried, mmm…tomato marjoram dip

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TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL PERMABLITZ

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On Saturday I’m facilitating my 5th Permablitz, but the first I designed and organised without Dylan. It’s a bit scary going solo, but being a community project really exciting! As I got the final preparations in order and butterflies fluttered in my stomach, I realised how daunting it must be for first time designer/facilitators. If you are a bit scared of putting yourself out there here are some random tips I’ve picked up along the way. Not at all exhaustive, but I hope it encourages you to get involved.

1

Don’t try and do everything yourself!

I have designed and facilitated at all 5 of my Permablitzes and been head facilitator at 3 of them (and although it is hard to believe someone who doesn’t take her own advice) don’t do both, for your own sanity! Get someone from the collective to be head facilitator on the day and take a back seat role. It will allow you to relax a bit more while someone with experience takes the reins. They will also pick up on logistical issues such as bottle necks to the compost pile that you might have missed.

2

Have fun!

The people who attend the permablitz are volunteers so whilst a little bit of hard work is fine, don’t run them into the ground like slaves. Temper hole digging with easier fun activities like planting and workshops. If people feel like they have learnt something when they leave then it’s a beautiful thing! You’ll get a lot of first time Blitzers attending and you don’t want this blitz to be their last!

3

Dream big, but not too big!

It’s okay to design the perfect permaculture garden that will feed 3 families of 4 come the apocalypse, but know what is achievable. Ask yourself is this too much for the host to maintain? Is it too much to do in a day? Yes, cut it back. Perhaps suggest staging it, with 2 blitzes a year apart. Not only will the Blitzers have a manageable amount of work to do on the day, but it won’t be too much weeding, planting, watering for the host to deal with come the morning. If it is all running like a well oiled machine months later then the host can hold another blitz to finish the job, if not, maybe just a Permabee to help maintain what is already there.

4

Know your soil

If there is any digging to be done on the day make sure you know what you’ve got yourself into. Heavy clay might mean you decide not to do that swale and build up instead. If you aren’t building the soil up it might even be a good idea to suggest a soil test in case of contaminants. If you are digging down on public land also consider dialing before you dig, to make sure you don’t cut something important. That would be awkward!

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5

Know your micro-climates

Soil, sun and moisture can vary so much on the one site! Lastcweek I marked the path for Sqturday’s Blitz with a shovel, it was hard work, but now I can relax the morning of the Blitz, the markings won’t wash away like spray paint, it will be clear to see where to scalp the turf and I was able to have a good look at the different soil types and moisture patterns on site. And on a 27+C day I definitely worked out where the shade was. This will be really helpful when it’s time for planting, making sure the soft moisture lovers are not hanging out where the tough guys should be lurking.

6

Don’t forget the plants!

That might seem obvious, but hosts tend to get so concentrated on compost and mulch that hardly any time and budget is left for plants and a Permablitz without plants leaves it looking unfinished, more opportunity for weeds to grow, exposed to the elements and nothing for the host to eat. If money is an issue then remind them to get propagating ASAP, and their friends and family, and please anyone who can donate seedlings!

7

Value design, but don’t be precious

Its your host’s garden so apart from a design and list of materials it is not your job to run around ordering materials and plants for them. By creating a kickass design you have already given them a lot of yourself. Remember if you value good design others will to. And for host & designer, don’t make promises that are going above and beyond that you can’t deliver. Too hard? Be honest! Although some ideas might be amazing, they might be impractical, not everyone is blessed with a ute, learn to let go. By the same token, it’s not your garden so don’t force your ideas on resistant ears.

8

Prepare for a rainy day.

Despite your best intentions some things are out of your control. One of these is the weather another is your volunteers. Be prepared! Can you tarp an area? Can you reduce the scope in case people don’t turn up? Or maybe it is way too hot, how can you provide shade? Don’t forget sunscreen and hydration! Whatever comes your way have a contingency plan. If it’s too wet to dig paths out in the slosh, it’s okay to save it for another day (make sure the host is aware of this). Perhaps you can get the sheet mulching done and a timber planter built under cover. Quality not quantity!

9

Don’t double handle

If it’s easier to do things inefficiently at a blitz you have too many people. Carefully plan circulation and access paths to avoid bottle necks. Make sure you have enough wheelbarrows and tools. When you send out a reminder email a week before the blitz ask people to tell you what they can bring. Divide the Blitzers into smaller groups with a facilitator for each who can look after their questions rather than you being the only go to person. Spread these groups out so they don’t get in each others way or all need the hose at once. Let them look after an area rather than a task, no one wants to be on compost moving all day.

10

Be inspired

Throughout the day take a moment to realise what you all have achieved. You came together as a group of strangers to create something beautiful, not only for the garden’s owner, but for the community as well. Back pats and beers all round! See you on Saturday!

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FOOD FOREST GARDENS PLANTING GUIDE

Here is where you’ll find a constantly updating list of Warm Temperate Food Forest Plants. I will add links to detailed descriptions of each as I post them including the most resilient of the lot as observed from our own food forest garden and those we have designed. It’s exciting to see some subtropical plants not only surviving but thriving in this climate if you choose the right microclimate (e.g. against a brick wall or mulch pit with grey water)

The realisation dawned with an artichoke flower bud, this gourmet delight that had not only survived but multiplied under my utter neglect. It had been a dizzying summer in our new garden started too late to harness the mild flush of spring.

Our annuals had struggled under baking sun and then a dreary winter had snuffed out hope of even mild self-sufficiency until the following spring, 3pm the dreaded time that the flats next door snuffed out our sun each day. A year later our annual beds bloomed and tomatoes swayed seductively, it looked great and tasted better but it had been a slog against sun, wind and snail.

We finally turned our attention to our little attempt at a food forest, planted and then forgotten for almost a year. But to our surprise and delight it was not a tangle of weeds or barren earth that the annual bed seems to revert to when your trowel wavers for a moment, the opposite: parsley gone mad, banana plants soaring skyward, almond blossoming, Babaco at almost 45 degrees under its weight of fruit (despite being in full shade all winter) and green manure leaving soil moist and soft. Of course with a little more intervention it could have been more productive, but it had reached a state of balance on its own that meant I didn’t have to fret if I went on holidays, or empty a water tank to quench its thirst. Although a far cry from a true forest, our little “low maintenance” perennial garden was working.

From that moment I changed my design strategy: easy, low maintenance, productive and beautiful… a Food Forest Garden.

Now we have an exciting project on the horizon, a Forest Garden for the Flemington Community Garden. Stay tuned for more!

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7 Layers of a Temperate Forest Garden

The 7 layer classification system was developed by Robert Hart from Prehistoric tropical garden methods in the 60s for more temperate climates. It provides a structure similar to that of a real forest that can be adapted from a large scale farm to that of a modest backyard. The architecture of a successful food forest considers not only light requirements of the plants, but water, shelter, root depths and other companion planting principles.

1. Canopy Layer

9m+ high nut, fruit and nitrogen fixing trees (Only larger FFGs)

2. Low-tree Layer

4m high, Dwarf Fruit / Nut Trees
Nitrogen Fixers & smaller trees
Shade tolerant trees
Pruned into open form for light

3. Shrub Layer

Woody perennial plants
Flowering, fruiting, wildlife attracting

4. Herbacious Layer

Perennial vegetables
Self seeding annuals
Bee & poultry forage
Mulch & soil builders, cover crops

5. Groundcover Layer

Less than 30cm high
Low, prostrate, creeping plants
Forms a living mulch – retain, suppress weed growth

6. Rhizosphere (Root) Layer

Edible roots & tubers
Shallow rooted, easy to dig
Longer rooted left to flower for beneficial insects

7. Vertical Layer

Climbers, creepers, vines
Twine around trunks or up fences, trellises, etc.
Habitat and food
Only in established Forest Garden, can strangle young trees

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1. Canopy Layer

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Alder Alnus
American Persimmon Diospyros virginiana
Apple Malus sylvestris
Arazole / Mediterranean Medlar Crataegus azarolus
Black locust Robinia pseudoacacia
Carob Ceratonia siliqua
Cherry Prunus avium
Chestnut Castanea dentata
Chinese Chestnut Castanea mollissima
Cornelian cherries Cornus mas
European Plum (Myrobalan) Prunus domestica
Hawthorn Crataegus spp.
Highbush cranberries Viburnum trilobum
Honey locusts Gleditsia triacanthos
Japanese Walnut (Heartnut) Juglans ailantifolia
Korean Stone Pine Pinus koraiensis
Northern Pecan Carya illinoinensis
Pear Pyrus communis
Siberian Pea Tree Caragana arborescens
Stone pine Pinus pinea
Tagasaste/ tree Lucerne Cytisus proliferus
Walnut Juglans
Hawthorns Crataegus monogyna
Medlar Mespilus germanica
Mulberry Morus spp.
Quince Cydonia oblonga

2. Low-Tree Layer

Almond dwarf Prunus dulcis
Apple Dwarf Malus domestica
Apricot Prunus armeniaca
Australian Round Lime Citrus australis
Banana (Lady Finger) Musa acuminata
Beech Fagus sylvatica
Cherry Dwarf Prunus avium
Citrus Dwarf Citrus spp.
Crab Apple Malus sp.
Date-plum Diospyros lotus
Dogwood Cornus
Elderberry Sambucus nigra
Japanese peppers Zanthoxylum spp.
Fruit Salad Plant Monstera deliciosa
Nectarine Prunus persica v. nectarina
Olive Olea europaea
Pawpaw, Papaya Carica papaya
Peach Dwarf Prunus persica
Pear Dwarf Pyrus communis
Persimmon Dwarf Diospyros spp.
Plum Dwarf Prunus domestica
Service Tree Sorbus domestica
Tamarillo, Tree Tomato Cyphomandra betacea
Tree mugwort Artemisia arborescens
Bamboo ‘Gracilis’ Bambusa textilis ‘Gracilis’
Serviceberry Amelanchier spp.
Silverberry Elaeagnus
Acacia/Wattles Acacia spp.

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3. Shrub Layer

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Acacia/Wattle Acacia spp.
Austral Indigo Indigofera australis
Blackberry Rubus fruticosus
Blueberry Vaccinium spp.
Cape Gooseberry Physalis peruviana
Currants Ribes spp
Curry Plant Helichrysum italicum
Edible Savlias Salvia spp.
Goji berries Lycium barbarum
Gooseberry Ribes Uva-crispa
Guavas Myrtus spp.
Jostaberry Ribes x culverwellii
Large Kangaroo Apple Solanum laciniatum
lavender lavandula angustifolia
Lemon Verbena Aloysia triphylla
Mountain Marigold Tagetes lemmonii
Nodding Saltbush Einadia wutans
Perennial Basil Ocimum gratissimum
Perennial Chilli, Rocoto Chilli Capsicum pubescens
Raspberry Rubus spp.
River Mint Mentha australis
Rose Rosa
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis
Scented Geraniums Pelargonium graveolens
Southernwood Artemisia abrotanum
Tomatillo Physalis philadelphica
Wormwood Artemisia absinthium

4. Herbacious Layer

Asparagus Asparagus officinalis
Balm Melissa officinalis
Borage Borago officinalis
Broad bean Vicia faba
Buckwheat Fagopyrum esculentum
Calendula Calendula officinalis
Comfrey, Knitbone Symphytum officinale
Dill Anethum graveolens
Fennel Foeniculum vulgare
French Sorrel Rumex scutatus
Garden Mint Mentha sachalinensis
Garlic Chives Allium tuberosum
Globe Artichoke Cynara scolymus
Hyssop Cynara cardunculus
Lemongrass Cymbopogon spp
Lovage Levisticum officinale
Marigold Tagetes
Mint Mentha spp.
Oregano Origanum vulgare
Parsley Petroselinum spp.
Pepino, Pepino Dulce, Melon Pear Solanum muricatum
Perpetual/Perennial Spinach Beta vulgaris var. cicla
Phacelia Phacelia Tanacetifolia
Rhubarb Rheum rhabarbarum
Sorrel Rumex acetosa
Stevia Stevia rebaudiana
Tansy Tanacetum vulgare
Yarrow Achillea millefolium

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5. Groundcover Layer

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Alpine Strawberries Fragaria x vesca
Sweet Alyssum Lobularia maritima
Basil Thyme Acinos arvensi
Black Cumin Nigella Sativa
Clover Trifolium
Coral Pea Hardenbergia violacea
Corsican Mint Mentha requienii
Cranberry Vaccinium Oxycoccus spp.
Creeping Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium
Creeping Snowberry Gaultheria hispidula
Creeping Thyme Thymus serpyllum
Fat hen Chenopodium album
Ground Elder Aegopodium podagraria
Kamchatka Bilberry Vaccinium praestans
Lingonberries Vaccinium vitis-idaea
Lowbush Blueberries Vaccinium angustifolium
Marshmallow Althaea officinalis
Miner’s Lettuce Claytonia perfoliata
Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus
Pigface Carpobrotus modestus
Prostrate Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’ or ‘Huntington Carpet’
Roman Chamomile Chamaemelum nobile
Running Postman Kennedia spp.
Sweet Violets Viola odorata
Vervain Verbena officinali
Warrigal Greens Tetragonia tetragonoides
Wintergreen Gaultheria procumbens

6. Rhizosphere Layer

Arrowroot Maranta arundinacea
Beetroot Beta vulgaris
Carrot Daucus carota sativus
Cassava (Tapioca) Manihot esculenta
Chicory Cichorium intybus
Chives Allium schoenoprasum
Daikon Raphanus sativus L.
Daylilly Hemerocallis fulva
Echinacea Echinacea angustifolia
Garlic Allium sativum
Ginger Zingiber officinale
Ginseng Panax spp.
Groundnut Apios americana
Horseradish Armoracia rusticana
Jerusalem artichoke Helianthus tuberosum
Liquorice Glycyrrhiza spp.
Native ginger Hornstedtia scottiana
Oca, New Zealand Yam Oxalis tuberosa
Onion Allium cepa
Parsnip Pastinaca sativa
Potato Solanum tuberosum
Salsify Tragopogon spp.
Sweet Potato Ipomoea batatas
Tree/Egyptian Walking Onions Allium cepa var. proliferum
Welsh onion Allium fistulosum
Yacon Smallanthus sonchifolius
Yam Daisy Microseris scapigera

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7. Vertical Layer

Cantaloupe Cucumis melo reticulatus
Chokos Sechium edule
Climbing peas Pisum sativum
Coral Pea Hardenbergia violacea
Cucumbers Cucumis sativus
Grape -Sultana Vitis vinifera
Grapes Vitis spp
Honeydew Melon Cucumis melo inodorus
Honeysuckle (Blue-berried) Lonicera caerulea
Hops Humulus lupulus
Kiwi Berry / Hardy Kiwifruit Actinidia arguta
Kiwi fruit Actinidia spp
Malabar Spinach Basella alba ‘Rubra’
Maypop Passiflora incarnata
Nasturtium (Climbing) Tropaeolum majus
Passionfruit Passiflora edulis
Perennial bean (scarlet runner bean) Phaseolus coccineus
Pumpkin Cucurbita pepo
Soybean Glycine max
Squash Cucurbita
Sweet Potato (‘Bush Porto Rico’/’Centennial’) Ipomoea batatas
Watermelon Citrullus lanatus
Wild grape Vitis vinifera subsp. sylvestris
Zucchini Cucurbita pepo

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TOMATO CUTTINGS

easy guide to propagate tomatoes when it is too late to sow


tomato-for-cutting-summer

A tomato plant wasn’t born to stand to attention on a tomato stake, pruned within an inch of it’s life to a singledelicate stem. It’s a rambler, and like pumpkins and herbs like thyme all it needs is to touch its stem to the earth for it to sprout roots. This delightful trick can be used to your advantage when it gets too late for any tomatoes you sow to mature in time to bear any significant fruit.

A tomato cutting will bear fruit in a matter of weeks after the cutting sprouts roots.

So I plant all my tomato seeds in True Spring (Southern Hemisphere: September-October, Northern: March-April), plant them out in the beginning of High Summer (Southern: November, Northern: May). Then once these grow multiple stems about 20-30cm long I take cuttings to make extra plants from High Summer -Deep Summer (Southern: December-Mid March).

And here’s the best part! Tomato cuttings don’t actually need to be cut off the parent plant until they have grown roots! “What?!?” you say, here’s how:

ingredients

plastic juice/soft drink bottle
knife
secateurs & methylated spirits for disinfecting
hessian/cloth
scissors
electrical tape
chock


cutting-plastic-soft-drink-bottle-reuse-recycle

step 1

Cut base and top off the bottle. As bottles are wider at the bottom than the top, the top should be cut off at the point where it is slightly smaller than the base.

step 2

Cut hole in base for tomato stem to pass through.


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step 3

Chose a 20-30cm long stem and after disinfecting your secateurs with metho cut off all but 2-3 top leaf stems. Also remove any flowers so the tomato puts all its energy into producing roots. 


how-to-make-tomato-cutting-plastic-bottle

step 4

Cut a piece of hessian to fit in the bottle base. Snip a cross in the centre for the tomato stem to be threaded through. You do not need to cut the stem from the parent tomato plant! Take the rest of the bottle and place the top end in the base.


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step 5

Tape the base to the bottle with electrical tape.

step 6

Fill bottle with seed raising mixture being careful not tpo bruise or snap the tomato stem.


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step 7

Chock up on a piece of wood. A brick and timber board work well. Label with name and date.


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step 7

Water with diluted chamomile tea.


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the next few weeks

step 9

Keep your tomato “cutting” moist for the next few weeks, it’s very important that it doesn’t dry out.

Roots should start forming in the first week, but there is no need to cut in until you are ready to plant it in its new home. It should start developing new leaves as well.

step 10

By this stage you should clearly see a mass of roots through the plastic bottle. Cut the tomato cutting from its parent below the bottle, remove the bottle base cut the bottle along the side to slip it out before planting. A cut bottle can be reused by electrical taping the side back together.

why are bottle tomato cutting best?

Tomatoes are very prone to transplant stress. With an established root system before being snipped from itsparent your cuttings are more likely to survive.
It’s a great way to “clone” any particularly resilient, tasty tomatoes you have in your garden and extend its harvest beyond the life of its parent.
They transport well in their bottle pots.
As your cutting is already around 15cm tall out of the bottle your plant will grow tomatoes much sooner than a cutting taken the traditional way (only around 6cm) or a seedling grown from seed.
A great way of re-using plastic bottles that would otherwise go in the recycling bin. A clear bottle means you can see the roots growing.

step 8

Wrap the bottles in hessian to protect the growing roots from the sun and retain moisture.


steps-how-to-guide-tomato-seedlings-growing

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