CHOP & DROP MULCHING

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high summer preparation
free, easy mulching solutions for the busy gardener to replesh nutrients in their soil and protect their plants form the hot weather.


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The seaweed mulch we covered the garden beds with has been decomposing nicely, shrinking away to nothing. adding nutrients to the soil. However the companion plants haven’t grown large enough to cover the bare spots and the cool weather crops are ending. On the otherhand the herb border went wild during the Spring Flush!

Herbs accumulate a lot of micro-nutrients in their leaves, especially the perennial ones with deep roots, they’re pretty sneaky and can get hidden nutrients out of even the worst soil. So if you can’t eat them all it makes sense to chop up the leaves and mulch with them, as they decompose they’ll make those nutrients accessible to your annuals. A lot of these are also great compost activators and some plants like legumes actually accumulate nitrogen from the air! I use trimmings of the River Wattle bushes we have in our food forest as it is nice and fine. Always finely chop your herb mulches so they breakdown easily and in the case of nasturtiums don’t start spouting! You can even use leafy kitchen scraps, but don’t let your chooks/worms go hungry! Add crushed eggshells for additional calcium.

Just like us plants need a balanced diet to be disease resistant and healthy. In nature leaves fall to the ground adding nutrients back to the soil, some are eaten by animals and insects, but they too add to the soil in the form of manure. How can we expect the soil to remain healthy when all we do is take and take? A diet of sugarcane mulch alone is just not enough! To avoid problems of malnutrition, spread your herb mulch throughout the garden to evenly distributing a broad specturm of nutrients.

So why waste time and money buying fertilisers and chemical additives?! You just need to follow nature’s example, chop & drop the leaves where you found them! It’s not lazy if it’s smart! Ha!

NOTE: Some herbs have negative allelopathic effects on other plants so should not be used as a mulch. These “anti-companions” release biochemicals that stunt growth, cause plants to bolt or just outright kill them dead. Why would they be so cruel? Perhaps as a defense mechanism to ward off herbivorous animals and insects, but is that really an excuse?


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If you know of anymore please share with us, let’s add to the list!

    MARJORAM – calcium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, trace amounts of manganese
    OREGANO – calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, trace amounts of zinc
    ANGELICA – potassium
    ROSEMARY – phosphorus, potassium, iron, magnesium, zinc, calcium
    THYME – potassium, phosphorus, calcium, iron, magnesium, zinc
    CHAMOMILE – calcium, potassium, phosphorous
    COMFREY – nitrogen, calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium, silica
    PARSLEY – calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium, trace amounts of phosphorus
    BASIL – calcium, iron
    ACACIA – nitrogen
    VETCHES – nitrogen, potassium, phosphorous, copper, cobalt
    LEGUMES – nitrogen
    LUPINS – nitrogen, phosphorous, calcium
    THISTLES – potassium
    NETTLES – calcium, iron, copper, sodium, sulphur, nitrogen, potassium
    DANDELION – iron, copper, potassium, sulphur, manganese
    PLANTAIN – calcium
    SUNFLOWERS – potassium
    PRIMROSE – magnesium
    YARROW – copper, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorous
    BORAGE – potassium, calcium, silica, phosphorous
    NASTURTIUMS – sodium, fluorine, sulphur, magnesium, calcium, potassium, phosphorous, iron


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spring harvest

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september – october 2012


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With the thawing of the weather came a rush of lush green growth and flush of unfurling petals, but that’s not all, something momentous was happening. We could hear it, a great whirring, a low hum that ebbed and flowed, but was growing in intensity. We opened the door to a great commotion, a great whirling, tornado of bees overhead. They were swarming. The bee man Martin had said that Steiner thought that a swarm looked like the soul of a human being that has left its body…to me like ash caught in a whirlwind. They carried on all day and then as suddenly as they had appear they vanished. With unease we approached the quiet hive.

The hive has become too cramped for the growing colony and its ostentatious monarch.

The old queen, feeling like a change of scenery and a more spacious castle, ups and leaves without so much as a thank you, taking the majority of the flying worker bees, along with a huge amount of your honey! You’re left with a ragtag crew of young flightless cleaners, nursers and only a scattering of workers. But all is not lost, the old queen in her benevolence has left some virgin queens developing in their queen cells (much cushier than those hexagonal ones for the plebs!). The nursers feed the larvae up and when they emerge the fight is one! If one gets out earlier enough, the sneaky minx will just sting the others to death as they doze. If she is too slow there is a fight on our hands, its a death match, winner takes all. If you are unlucky then the victorious queen may be so injured she dies, the remaining colony will suddenly find itself on radio silent and listlessly will buzz around with no real purpose, it is doomed. Well, unless you go and order a new queen online, they come by matchbox I’m told.

Luckily for us our new queen was a warrior princess, the next day everything seemed back to normal. Even better she seemed a good sort and no surprise stings were to be had. A friend of ours had a particularly nasty queen, with a short sharp temper. If you get a feisty one the whole colony takes on her snitty ways and can be quite aggressive.


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THE HARVEST

COMPANIONS

coriander
fennel – sweet, bronze
lettuce
silverbeet/chard
rosemary
beetroot
lime balm
lemon balm
mints – peppermint, orange, spearmint, common, basil mint, vietnamese
edible chrysanthemum
violas
nasturtiums
artichokes – purple
angelica
marjoram – golden
calendula
chamomile
bay leaves
strawberries
raspberries

BRASSICACEAE

roquette
broccoli
kale

UMBELLIFERAE

celery
carrots
parsley

SOLANACEAE

chillies

AMARYLLIDACEAE (ALLIUMS)

spring onions
chives

LEGUMIONOSAE

broad beans

OTHER

eggs

INEDIBLE CUT FLOWERS

sweetpea
california poppies
salvias
lupin


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double-decker poly wicking bed.

tomato experiment preparation




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Whenever I passed the Queen Victoria Market there was always a mound of polystyrene broccoli boxes so impressively high that it reassembled a hot weather igloo palace. It was kind of sickening and ever the innovator the powers that be came up with a solution to this spectacle pointless waste – hide them out the back and crush them out of sight and out of mind.

I could only reduce those insatiable mountains of foam by 20 boxes, but if you feel inspired to make a double-decker wicking bed too too dear reader, perhaps we can get something started! I have a concrete driveway beginning to be filled with poly wicking beds for my tomato experiment.

WHY A WICKING BED?

On those exhaustingly hot weeks you just don’t want to find yourself hose in hand every night after a long day in the office with mosquitoes buzzing around your ankles.

Wicking beds have a water reservoir at the bottom so you have to water less often – about every two weeks. The water is down deep so it encourages deep roots, so stronger plants, more resilient to a bit of sunburn. They offer a more constant water source too, so in theory it should be perfect for things like tomatoes that split and carry on if their water supply is erratic.

WHY POLY BOXES?

There is so much embodied energy and money that goes into making a regular wicking bed, what with the pond liner, the brand new poly pipe, agi pipe, shadecloth, etc, it doesn’t seem the right fit for the home garden. A poly wicking bed however is entirely made of unwanted materials, so you can feel smug while you make it! Ha!

WHY DOUBLE-DECKER?

I’ve seen single poly wicking beds before, but I wanted to make them for deep rooted plants like tomatoes, so why not simply make them stackable?






1LEVEL GROUND – a level surface allows water to be evenly distributed. Concrete driveways and paved areas often have a slight fall to them which could lead to water pooling down one end. Cans and pots of varying height can be used to elevate the boxes off the ground and create a more level base. A builder’s level is accurate but unnecessary, you can simply fill the container with a little water and see if evenly covers the bottom or pools at one end.

2SEALED CONTAINER – no plastic pond liner or staple guns required, a broccoli box has no holes and is well insulated against temperature extremes. I simply snap the top lip off and place it on the can/pot base.

3WATER DISTRIBUTION – another chance to raid the recycle bin. 7x600mL bottles with their bottoms cut off instead of the usual PVC and agi pipes. Wide mouthed ones are best because a standard hose can fit in the top, but otherwise just cut the tops off. On such a small scale, the gaps between the three bottles laid on the bottom will be enough to ensure even water throughout the reservoir. The remaining four stacked will allow you to deliver water right to the bottom of the wicking bed.

4WATER RESERVOIR – no more than 30cm deep to avoid stagnant water. Can be filled with scoria, gravel, broken terracotta pots…anything that allows big pockets of water between and can become saturated to encourage the wicking/capillary action up into the soil above. Nothing too fine as it will clog the plastic bottles. Fill with water to level out the scoria, then use a sharp stick to make 1 or 2 holes at the opposite end to the filling end. These act as overflows to prevent flooding when it rains.

5SOIL SEPARATION – something to prevent the soil from getting into the resevoir, but that allows water to wick through. Hessian or old sheets can be used, they will eventually need to be replaced, but in such a small wicking bed that’s no big deal. Use shadecloth if you are looking for something more permanent. Fold the hessian up the edges of the bed so no dirt gets through and so it is easy to remove should you want to take the wicking bed apart.

6NUTRIENT STORE* – high nitrogen poultry manure mixed with high carbon straw or dried leaves will make a most delightful reward for plants that grows nice deep roots. Then fill this to the brim with homemade potting mix.

72ND STOREY – cut the bottom out of the second broccoli box leaving a lip for it to sit on the one below. Fun fact: in a moment of despondency when my scissors broke in two I found that a half scissor works a treat at sawing through polystyrene, don’t throw them away!

8PLANT POCKET/SUPPORTS – As I have mentioned before it is best to prepare any garden bed at least 2 week to a month before you plant out plants that hate transplant to avoid soil settling crushing delicate roots . That is why I made a cardboard mould the size of my plastic bottle greenhouse so I can fill the wicking bed with soil and get the companion plants established before the tomatoes are ready to plant out. It is then as simple as pulling out the mould and slipping the tomato in the hole. Add stakes/supports now to avoid disturbing roots later.

8POTTING MIX – fill in the gaps with potting mix, plant some companions plants and mulch thickly. Voila, now it’s ready to plant out your tomatoes when the temperature reaches a consistent 10C+.

*TOMATO FACTS
Although tomatoes love nutrient rich soil do not spoil your tomatoes by over fertilising the soil with high nitrogen manures! They will become brattish – soft and lazy, shallow rooted plants that appear green and lush but require constant watering and attention susceptible to disease with thin skinned tomatoes prone to rot.
Additional nutrients should be delivered in the form of compost/seaweed teas ONLY once a plant has already started fruiting to extend cropping and overall yield. An even better idea is to bury poultry manure out of reach 20-30cm nearby or under your plants so their roots will access it only when they have grown deep and their fruit is ripening.





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tomato experiment.

is there really a right time and a right place?

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Seasons accelerate by and before we know it, summer’s ripening fruit is just a memory. If we don’t take the time to consciously observe our actions in the garden and learn from them we can end up in a rut. Year after year speeding by with the same failures and our successes remaining a mysterious shrugs of fate. Books and charts can be useful, but if we blindly follow what works for that person in that location we might never find that a banana plant can flourish in that sunny corner of our Mebournian garden.
 


Little experiments can be fun (if not entirely scientific) ways of discovering what works for you.


 
My first garden experiment was in year 8 when I tried growing silverbeet with different levels of fertiliser for science class, are the foolishness of youth. As I remember I wasn’t really keen on eating the silverbeet either. This Tomato Experiment on the other hand involves no pesticides or chemical fertilisers. It’s a step-by-step way to test when to sow and plant out tomatoes in your local area for optimum results.

Won’t you join me in a little investigating? What experiments have you tried in your garden?

THE QUESTION?

If my little daliance in silverbeet trials taught me anything, it’s that the first step is working out what you want to find out.

When should I plant my tomatoes for optimum yields and minimum fuss?

This is my main burning question, staring daggers at a miserable winter’s day I looked to my sow what when chart. I was desperate to start planting the warm weather beauties and it suggested as early as August. But the gardening gurus (Jackie French and Co.) shook their heads sagely from the gardening pages, they warned with furrowed brows: don’t get too hasty child! Don’t sow seeds too early at the first whiff of spring, you’ll end up with inferior plants, more susceptible to disease and pests, weak and sappy with lower yields and lesser fruit. Bah hum bug I replied, I’ll see it when I believe it! So the experiment was born.

I would also like to know:
Does sowing seeds early equal earlier fruit or do later sowing catch up?
When is too late to plant out?
Do tomatoes sown in my Plastic Juice Bottle Greenhouses grow better than those planted in pots/trays?
Can polystyrene wicking beds work for tomatoes or are raised no dig beds better?
 



Thinning the tomato seedlings and mulching around them with coco coir.

Burying stems to encourage roots

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THE TOMATO

I’d like to tell you that I chose the Periforme tomato because it is the most delicious cooked tomato I have ever had and that it was to challenge myself as I find larger tomatoes more difficult to grow than cherry tomatoes. But the truth… I accidentally ordered two packets of these and wanted an excuse to use them. The above are a happy coincidence. This is a late season tomato and ideally I would have preferred to try a mid season variety, but when the internet shopping gods send you a sign, you have to go with it.

What: Tomato Periforme Abruzzo
Why: Good slicing or cooking tomato
Where: Diggers Club Heirloom Seeds
When: Each month 3 seeds per container, 12 total (germination rate 86%). Once the first set of mature leaves appear I can then choose the strongest from each container thinning out the straglers. I then mulch around the remaining seedlings with coconut coir to retain moisture.
How: 4 Plastic Juice Bottle Greenhouses, placed in polystyrene boxes on north facing verandah. The polystyrene box helps insulate the seedlings against weather extremes. The mini juice bottle greenhouse provides enough room for the seedlings to grow until they are ready to plant out without requiring transplanting, which tomatoes really don’t enjoy.



When they reach 20cm they are ready to plant out, but as I started sowing early it will still be too cold so I add another juice bottle layer and fill it with homemade potting mix up the first set of mature leaves, burying the baby leaves. Roots will form along the the buried stem.

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TRUE SPRING RESULTS

Bottle greenhouse Germination:
August Periforme – 14-17 days
September Periforme – 12 days
October Periforme – 11 days

As the days got warmer the Periforme tomatoes germinated much faster.

Comparison Germination:
August Purple Russian – 19 days
September Beam’s Yellow Pear – 13 days
October Valentine – 14 days

These tomatoes were sown in trays then transplanted into newspaper pots/milk cartons 7cm wide and 12cm deep. They were left uncovered on a north facing verandah. The August tomato was much slower to germinate, the others only a day behind.

Although it would have been much more accurate to compare Periforme with Periforme, a girl’s got to have some variety!

End of October
August Periforme already 20cm tall and ready to plant out but the weather is still too cold. Built the soil up around the stem. I wondered if I should have attempted to plant out the August tomatoes now instead of waiting, by next month their stems will be so long it will be difficult to plant them out without damaging them. September Periforme quickly catching up to the height of the Augusts and look like they will be ready to plant out in November as well. I wondered if I should have bothered with the August planting at all. We shall see what the yields reveal.



 
 

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