After a traditional Mexican breakfast, delivered hot by the neighbours with a refreshingly cold hibiscus tea, we set off, but didn’t get far. We discovered the little town of Point Reyes Station and lingered a while. due to tired legs it was going to just be short day, so we were in no rush and this was just the place to be in such a state. Rocking chairs out the front of the organic grocery, community garden nearby and unrelated but note worthy a mechanic garage bursting with stag head trophies (although my city bred sensibilities squirm at hunting I believe it is the most ethical and sustainable way of eating meat if done right, using every part, wild and fresh, but killing the strongest member of a herd for the head on your wall is not my thing at all). We were content like a lizard on a rock, until that midday uneasiness set in, the road was calling.

After another oh so delightful hill climb oh much blustering and heaving, we came to a choice. Down the smooth hill road and out of sight, or hefting our bikes over a stile and up a rutted dirt single track through fields and past cows, guess which one we took? But of course we chose that one, there were cows and secretly for me an excuse to walk the bike up the hill, it was muddy you know. The cows were walking single file across the path, a long gangly but unbroken line, then one paused to bellow and three stragglers crested the hill and cantered, almost skipping to join the herd, it was all rather lovely. I had some fun testing my mountain biking skills on some down hill segments but when the mud began turning into tram tracks I hopped off and just took in the view. Rolling green hills, sea beyond, my idea of paradise. Then over a rise and before us were a glad of gum trees bathed in sunlight, oh what a sight for tired Australian eyes, that familiar smell. Then down down into darkness, hands getting tired from grasping the brakes and then light. After car streaming roads and rutted tracks the bike path through the woods looked about as perfect as we could imagine. We sailed along, no hills, just flat and smooth and car free. I liked to imagine this was how it would be in France, flowers and trees and sunlight.

We entered the red woods, towering soldiers of timber, leaves making a soft carpeted floor. We set up tent next to a family making camping magic with fairy lights and red and white checked table cloths. We opened our bear locker to find it full of wood, of such joy there would be a fire tonight!